Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Three things I learned...























...in Mr. Renkl's drawing class last Monday:

1. The universally adored Ambre Narguile smells like flea shampoo. That was the considered opinion of one of the students, and since his judgment was not influenced by any pre-established position on Hermes, JCE or the perfumista herd, I have no reason to doubt him.



2. It is fun to talk about perfume with people who are indifferent to the stuff. Of course, we all know what it's like to talk about fragrance with fellow addicts. (How do we find time for anything else?) Sadly, a lot of us also know what it's like to talk to people who think the whole business is self-indulgent, idiotic, bad for your health, etc. It was a refreshing change to chat about perfume with people for whom it’s just an engaging novelty. The inner workings of fragrance were pretty much new to all the students, though quite a few had seen Perfume and gathered some basics from it. I brought along some classic ingredients, like frankincense and myrrh, and they seemed to get a kick out of smelling them for the first time.

I expected to feel like one of those mildly pitiful eccentrics who collects porcelain spittoons or something, but if they pitied me, they didn't show it. They were just friendly and curious, and maybe a little baffled about how they were supposed to turn all the sniffing and talk of smells into an art project. I kinda wonder about that myself, but fortunately that's not my problem. I gave every student samples of 2 different perfumes, with no duplicates among them, which they're supposed to work with on their own. I'm curious to see what they come up with.



3. The ability to discern the qualities of a scent and "translate" it into other sensory realms is something most people possess. It's not a skill that's learned, and it's not peculiar to the perfume-loving minority. I had the class try to match unlabeled scent strips with the visual images of my One Sentence Reviews, and they did very well. I think they might have done even better if they'd been able to put the perfumes on their skin and experience the process of the dry down.

I also had them try to guess the colors for some of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz's color-inspired fragrances, and they were quite good at that, too. They really nailed Quinacridone Violet. Everybody said it was either pink or purple--and of course, quinacridone violet is both. I suppose that's mostly a tribute to DSH's talents, but it's still remarkable to me that they got it so precisely. It was a nice reminder that our little addiction arises from something primal in the human brain. Smell really does bring the imagination to life, even if its expression is sometimes distorted by marketing and fashion.



A Young Scholar, Jean-Honoré Fragonard, 1775-78.

11 comments:

Flora said...

That is so cool! I wish I had received a visit from a "perfume teacher" when I was in school.

Re: DSH Quinacridone Violet - I could have smelled that stuff blindfolded and known it was "purple", it's an amazing composition.

BitterGrace said...

I'd suggest we should all go looking for opportunities to educate the youth, but people might start to think we're a cult ;-)

DSH is a remarkable talent. I had them smell Arome d'Egypt, too, because of the spikenard element. I love that stuff.

Anonymous said...

Good for you for having the courage to bring the perfume message to the masses:)
Seriously, it's more valuable then you may think. I bet most of these students will never forget the experience.
I think there should be fragrance appreciation and perfume history classes along with art appreciation or art history at schools. How can we loose by expanding our perception?

Come to think of it, my fascination with scent and all things perfume started with a little scratch -and-sniff exhibit about spices at the Botanical Garden. All of a sudden I'd felt a new dimension open up. It grew and my world has never been the same since...

Thanks for your blog, I really enjoy reading it.
Nika

BitterGrace said...

Hi, Nika. It's always good to hear from you.

I do think a couple of the students were potential perfume lovers. They showed an interest in composition, which seems like a good sign. I think the idea of teaching perfumery as part of culture is not a bad idea at all. Of course, there would be the scent-phobes to contend with.

trish said...

OMG, porcelain spittoons. Thanks for a good chuckle!!

Alyssa said...

Yay! I feel very strongly that the way perfume is marketed is holding the pleasure of perfume and smells hostage from large numbers of people who would otherwise be sniffing along happily in the same way that they taste different cheeses, or shop for novelty microbrewed beer. I am always amazed -- and sometimes even a little dismayed -- at how very, very, good my initiates/converts/willing victims of evangelism are at describing scents. Quite often their noses seem to be better than mine.

Do share some of the resulting project if you can!

BitterGrace said...

Hi, Trish. I never knew there was such a thing as "tobaccoiana" until yesterday. There are even people who collect old cigar ribbons.Alyssa, I asked the professor if I could see what they come up with. If any of the students want their work posted, I'll do it.

Perfumeshrine said...

I LOVE those blind tests, simply adore them! One learns so much from them and you did excellently to introfuce them into so many wondruous things.
I would be interested in reading the follow-up, what exactly IS the project? (is it part of a teaching class?)

BitterGrace said...

It's just a university drawing class, E--"drawing" interpreted broadly. The teacher likes to work conceptually, so they've done other classes using music, etc. Just seeking inspiration, you know.

chayaruchama said...

I'm on board, my sister.

It's one of my greatest pleasures...
And I love to teach, mentor, whatever.

Dawn is a tender soul of exquisite beauty; all her brilliant artistry aside, what a dearness she is.

BitterGrace said...

Hi, Chaya. I'd love to meet DSH one of these days. I admire her work more all the time.